Stamp Descriptions / Abbreviations

Stamps Australia OnlineMUH: Mint Un-HingedMNH: Mint Never HingedMLH: Mint Lightly HingedFU: Fine UsedVFU: Very Fine UsedGU: Good UsedU: UsedMS: Mini SheetFDC: First Day CoverCTO: Cancel To OrderWC: Well CenteredGB: Great BritainNZ: New ZealandASC: Australian Stamp CatalogueSG: Stanley Gibbons Stamp Catalogue

Getting started with Model Trains

In todays fast world of p.c. games,e-pods, internet, etc it seems Model Railways or Model Trains can be considered out of date. But it still remains a strong, crowd pullingdrawcard at Model Exhibitions and one of the best hobbies in which you can involve children of all ages. After a positive response to my guide "Buying Model Trains on E-bay overseas" I was motivated to put down some general thoughts on the two main gauges of Model Trains, ie HO gauge and N scale. I'm no expert by any means, and these thoughts are designed to start you thinking, talking , and to gently push you in the right direction ( I hope.) A lot of people start by building a layout for children/grandchildren, sometimes they stay in the hobby but most drift away if the child loses interest. So lets look at some ideas that may help the average "Joe and his/her offspring" stay within the hobby a little longer. (1) Space available. Depending on what space is available will help you decide what gauge Models you invest in. Yes, invest is the key word, if you chose wisely from your first train set, carriage or locomotive, if you do leave the hobby there is a good chance to recoupe some of your outlay if you have quality goods to resell through E-bay or the members of a local model railway club(which is a excellent place to start in seeking help or information on the hobby) then the jolt to the hip pocket can be eased. When involving children I recommend HO gauge above N scale. HO has a ratio of 1-87, ie 87 times smaller than the real thing. N scale is 1-160, ie 160 times smaller etc. Saying that, I didn't follow that rule as I use N scale and our grandkids,are 3 boys aged,4, 7, and 9 but you just have to teach them they are MODELS not TOYS and most kids are fine.I feel that HO models are easier for kids to handle, more robust and they relate better to the size at first. The downside to HO is you need a fair size space to run a good length train. A way around that is to build a point to point layout around two or moresides of a shed or layout board. A point to point layout can be from one marshling yard to another or a simple dog-bone type layout so continous running is possible and you can put in passing sidings and/or switch sidings orindustrial sidings between the dog-bone turns to have variation in train movement.One good source of material for layout boards or trestles/legs is building sites in housing estates. My layout board is 15 feet by 7 feet,(BUGGER METRICS)on wheels with a space for Margarets' carto fit under one end and all it cost me was5 sheets of thin plywood for the top at $14 a sheet and six sets of wheels. In time I will get more ply sheets to cover the sides and most of the front, it hides the wiring and shelves and I'll mount some laminated railway photos on the ply for extra visual impact. Being such an expensive hobby, money saved by one thing can help get that special loco or set of hoppers you like. N scale is great fun, we run 15 or 20 car freights with 3/4 diesels up front or 9/10 car passenger trains with one big steam loco or 2 diesels and it's great fun. My layout has a long way to go yet butgetting there is half the fun.(2) Model Trains or Model Railroads.The difference is that some want to simply run Model trains on simple layouts and the attraction for them are the models themselves, they don't worry too much about correct running procedures, running the correct train for that particular era etc, The other side of the coin is to faithfully reproduce a certain railway at a certain point of time and to make it as close to the real thing as possible. I feel myself that some point in between the two levels isa healthy compromise, after all it's your creation to do what gives you the most fun but I do feel that sometime considering this point will long term, give you value for money when you start buyingyour models.(3) Everything reachable. Spend a bit extra time in planing the layout. Model Railroader is an excellent American based magazine and the best $10 a month you'll spend.Kalmbach also brings out the magazine Model Railroad Planning on a yearly basis, the 2006 edtion is very good, both magazines are full of tips. I feel the easiest mistake to make is not being able to reach every part of the layout, if you can't reach it you can't clean it and good track maintence with a soft cloth moistened with alcohol to remove oils or an abrasive block(like a rubber) for heavier dirt can work wonders. (4) Plan for extensions. Even if you don't end up staying in the hobby, if you include in your track plan one extra siding or passing loop that can be modified or connected to another layout or board then selling the layout will be easier. If you stay with the hobby there is more scope to extend.(5) Join or visit your local Model Railway Club. There are some terrific people in our hobby, I've made a lot of good friends from all walks of life, they are a wealth of knowledge and always willing to help. Here in Townsville there is one informal club that runs HOwith excellent membersbut there are a couple of us that intend to start an N scale club in the same informal manner so if you haven't got one in your area, start one it's not that hard and benifits are many.In closing, if I can help in any way or you want to chat about getting started I don't know it all but I know some. It is very easy in these hectic times to not become involved with others but I believe in the old saying you get out of life what you put in, Within the spirit of the E-Bay community, let's support and help those sellers who consisantly do the right thing, and do feel free to contact me through e-bay if I can help. Happy Days to all. Denis8579

How to Care For

Follow these easy steps to ensure that your child's clothes keep their good looks. Keep your Fred Bare Fabulous, your Esprit Excellent and your Target Terrific! And how to tell if a seller has treated their pre-loved clothes with the same respect. Caring for your new clothes;No.1 The Golden Rule of Laundry: Turn EVERY garment inside-out before washing and drying. This makes a huge difference to wear and tear of your clothes. Ever noticed how that 'black' t-shirt is now green/grey on the outside and jet black inside? If it had been turned inside out prior to each wash the fading would not be seen. Washing machines are tough on clothes, the poor things are beaten inside a metal drum for an hour, dozens of times in their life span. Constant friction and full exposure to washing powders causes the outside of the garment to fade, threads and buttons to loosen, bruising of fabric, scratching of metals and allows pilling (fluff balls) to form. Make turning clothes inside out a habit - do it as soon as the clothes are taken off - it only takes a mo!No.1 Buying guideHas the seller mentioned wash fade? If not, use the ask seller a questionbutton and ask! Many used garments will have lost some colour. Even 'never been worn' items may have lost that 'just bought' look after one wash. How can you check once your purchased item arrives? Stretch the elastic waistband on baby pants, is the fabric colour darker in the grooves? Look under the collar of that girls top or under that flap of a shirt pocket.No.2 Open all buttons and Close all zipsSay this as your mantra while you stand in the laundry turning everyone else's clothes inside out! Leaving a shirt etc. buttoned up will cause strain on the stitching and fabric around the button. Save yourself the trouble of sewing buttons back on, or worse losing them or having a tear in the button band. Leaving zips open allows the delicate teeth to get bashed and twisted while being laundered. Closing it will keep teeth alligned and the zip in good working order. It will also prevent 'buckling' of the fly area, on jeans especially, and makes things easier to iron. No.2 Buying guideHas the seller described buttons and zips? Are there any replacements for lost originals or logo buttons? Find out if there are any nicks or tears in the fabric. Click on ask seller a questionto find out if zips are in good working order. No.3 Empty all pocketsIf you've ever left a tissue in the pocket of your overalls before putting them in the washing machine then you'll know this rule already! The same applies to pens, lip balm and that strange thing your little boy found in the garden!No.4 Check for Colour FastnessDenim, brightly coloured or black garments can all cause laundry disasters. Brand new clothes should be checked for colour fastness before adding to your wash. Fill a light coloured basin or sink with hot water. Immerse the new garment for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the item, squeeze out excess water into the basin and check for dye run. If a lot of excess dye comes out you will need to wash the item separately and check again prior to the next wash. No.3

Bridal Survival Kit or Bride's Emergency Bag

A special Bridal Survival Bag can be a very personal, practical creation. Ready-made wedding emergency kits can be hard to find, so why not go one step further and plan a whole bridal bag - with that extra touch of putting together individual pieces inside! It's so valuable and memorable as a gift or for your own wedding.Part 1 - Some Suggested Ingredients or Checklist(Tip:Make everything small and lightweight as possible)TissuesPanadol Hair Ties/Bands/PinsNail FileTravel Comb/BrushBandaidSpare stockingsClear nailpolish for stocking runsTampon/Pad/Panty LinerRescue Remedy/Brandy miniatureDeodorantEyedropsCompact mirrorSewing Kit - Needle, White/Cream Thread, Safety Pins Tip:Make your own! Wrap the cotton around a folded bit of cardboard approx 1cmx4cm, then tuck the needle/pins under the thread.Breath Mints Tip:To save room, I put 12 TicTacs into a mini resealable bag or Zip Lock bag.Travel-size makeup and perfume Tip:Do an advanced miniatures search in the Beauty and Health category for mini, miniature, travel size, sample, GWP, tiny -- or buy tiny containers to put your own in - like Tupperware keyrings! Part 2 - Putting It All Together1. Place ingredients in an organza bag, or a ziplock bag with a personalised home-printed hang tag to make it look more professional.2. Then put the pack in a bridal bag! Tip - Buya bagthat hangs from your wrist - bangle, wrist, dilly, bridal - so you/the bride won't have to carry it on the day. Tip - If you have the time/skills, you could make a matching wrist bag using offcuts from the wedding dress fabric and attach ribbon or bangles to the top. Note: Leave the bride enough room to put in her mobile phone and keys!

Choosing your wetsuit

So you want a new wetsuit but don't know what you should buy? this little guide should give some good advice when looking for your next winter warmer.Wetsuits aren't as complicated and high-tech as the wetsuit manufacturing companies would like us to believe. They are essentially just rubber panels that have been sewn together to form a garment designed to trap a layer of water against the skin to insulate the wearer from the cold. Simple, right? So what's with all the high-tech mumbo-jumbo that you see in the glossy pamphlets and magazine ads? Features. Wetsuit companies are competing hard for your dollar, and even the most simple features have names that sound like something from the Space Shuttle or a stealth bomber.When looking for your suit the more you pay the more of these high tech mumbo-jumbo features you'll usually get and your looking at anywhere between 80-500 australian dollars so what are these features and why do i want them? Well here's the information your going to need! Fit. Try on different sizes, different suits (companies have several different types of suit with different names), and different wetsuit manufacturers. Neoprene type. 'Smoothie' neoprene tends to stretch better, look better, and is warmer esp. in windy conditions. It is also a little more susceptible to damage than the neoprene with fabric on the outside. Some suits now use a polypropylene lining on the inside which helps to repel the water and keep you a little warmer. Seams. These connect the panels of neoprene. Generally speaking, more panels in a suit design means better flexibility. It also means more places for water to get in. There are a few types of seams used: Overlock. This is found on the least expensive suits. This type of stitch lasts forever, is not watertight, and can cause skin irritation or rash as it protrudes a lot. Flatlock. A flat stitch that doesn't push into your skin like the overlock stitching. It is not as durable as the overlock stitch, but does not cause as much rash problems. This is also not a watertight stitch. Blindstitch. Blindstitching is flat and does not penetrate through to the other side of the neoprene, so there are no stitch holes for cold water to follow. Double-blindstitched suits have stitching on both sides, neither of which break through to give water a path to follow. Blindstitching (or double-blindstitching) is nearly always combined with a gluing-together of the seams beforehand, and protective tape for additional seal and comfort on the inside seams. This type of seam is less durable than either overlock or flatlock. It is watertight, which makes a tremendous difference. Suits with this type of seam can have more panelling, meaning more flexibility, without causing more water inflow through the seams. The warm layer of insulating water near the skin stays there, instead of circulating with the cold ocean. Naturally, this type of seam is found on only the most expensive wetsuits.Arm/Leg/Neck Seals. This tends to fall under the 'fit' category. Most suits now have a wide, smooth seal at the neck. Make certain there's lots of velcro to keep the neck closed. Closures. Back-zip suits. The most common type, and for a long time the only type. Check these suits for a sturdy metal zipper rather than cheap plastic, and for good, thick flaps behind the zipper to prevent cold water flushes. "Zip cups" are often added in the better suits to the bottom portion of the zipper, providing extra protection against cold water intrusion. Shoulder-zip suits. The major drawback of back-zip suits is the stiffness of the zipper, reducing paddling and surfing flexibility. Shoulder zippers eliminate this problem to some extent, creating new inflexibility in the upper chest region. Zipper-free suits. These suits use new neoprene with more flexible nylon liners and various kinds of velcro closures to create a suit that eliminates potential for cold water flushing into the zipper as well as flexibility problems. These suits can be hard to get into or out of, are very expensive, and may have wear-and-tear problems. So far, few people have had these for more than a few months (as of early 1996).Thickness. Obviously, the thicker the suit, the colder the water you will be able to brave. Thick suits also result in more weight and less flexibility, as well as higher prices. Finding quality in the other categories can allow you to reduce the thickness for a given water temperature. Other Bells and Whistles Titanium. A coating of titanium oxide is applied to the wetsuit rubber on the inner side of the suit before the nylon and neoprene are bonded. The titanium is supposed to reflect heat that is radiated out from the body. Does it work? In theory, yes, but it is unknown how important it is. Polypropylene. Used as an inner lining for the newest wetsuits. This material is hydrophobic (repels water) and is supposed to help keep you drier. It is marketed both as used in the wetsuit itself and as a separate liner (like a rash guard). This stuff works best when just used totally by itself to protect from wind while surfing in warm water.Fit. This one is important. So much so, in fact, that many surfers are opting to pay $600 for a custom-made wetsuit.There are many types of wetsuits and water body warmers in which i will write more about but for now i will leave you with some pictures of some examples

Emergency Kits

Depending on where, and for how long you intend to be camping, an emergency kit is always a handy item to have, at least some form on first-aid kit and knowledge on how to correctly use it. So a St Johns first aid course is a pretty good idea

TWO DOLLAR * * Star Banknotes * * Prices REALISED

$2 Star Banknotes - prices realised and gradings from AuctionsTWO DOLLARS, Coombs/Wilson (1966)ZFA 01134* (R.81s) Fine Apr08 $450.00ZFA 02816* (R.81s) Very good. July 08ZFA 38009* (R.81s) gVF $700.00 Oct07ZFA 65695* (R.81s) gF $475.00 Oct07ZFA 79624* (R.81s) Nearly very fine. $650.00 July 07ZFA 98079* (R.81s) Nearly very fine. $650.00 July 07ZFB 33578* (R.81s) Fine $360.00 Nov 07ZFB 44851* (R.81s) Two spots bottom edge otherwise crisp good very fine. $480.00 July 07ZFB 57462* (R.81s) Good Fine Apr08 $400.00ZFB 89614* (R.81s) Tear repair through left serial, otherwise good fine. $300.00 July 07ZFB 97114* (R.81s) Very Good Apr08 $300.00ZFB 99275* (R.81s) Uncirculated. est$3750 Nov07 , Apr08 sold$3,300.00ZFC 06261* (R.81s) Few teller flicks, LCF-UNC. May08ZFC 06262* (R.81s) Few teller flicks, LCF-UNC. May08ZFC 1485* (R.81s) error in Catalogue, Very Good Apr08 $200.00ZFC 23715* (R.81s) gF May08 sold $350.00ZFC 51273* (R.81s) gF Oct07ZFC 53761* (R.81s) VF $700.00 ZFD 73696* (R.81s) Flattened, nearly extremely fine. July 08ZFE 50135* (R.81s) Virtually UNC May08ZFE 70840* (R.81s) Folds and creases, fine $500.00ZFF 67099* (R.81s) Flattened of folds and creases, 3 mm tear in bottom edge, good fine.ZFG 27736* (R.81s) Uncirculated. July08ZFG 28903* (R.81s) aEF May08 ZFG 65602* (R.81s) small repaired margin tear aUNC Oct07, May08 Res$800ZFG 78291* (R.81s) Flattened of creases and folds, fine. $400.00ZFG 92265* (R.81s) Folds and creases, fine Apr08 $480.00TWO DOLLARS, Coombs/Randall (1968)ZFH 38105* (R.82s) Small repaired edge tear, VF. Oct07 $700.00 unsoldZFH 42361* (R.82s) Scarce gVF $2000.00 ZFH 67083* (R.82s) Creases and folds, 2mm tear left hand edge, otherwise fine. $300.00ZFH 69257* (R.82s) Three mm tear into lower right margin, nearly fine. Apr08 $520.00ZFH 75885* (R.82s) Very Good , trimmed, cleaned and flattened sold $406.00 Aug 08ZFH 84677* (R.82s) Diagonal crease or impression top right of centre. July08ZFJ 02801* (R.82s) UNC May08 ZFJ 17173* (R.82s) Flattened of folds but original body and ink, nearly very fine. $1450.00 July 07ZFJ 26344* (R.82s) Creases and folds, good fine. $1150.00ZFJ 36075* (R.82s) Creases and folds, rust spot, good fine. $540.00ZFJ 40700* (R.82s) Uncirculated $7400.00 Nov 07ZFJ 64860* (R.82s) Fine $650.00 Oct07 ZFJ 92255* (R.82s) Tear 3 mm at bottom of note, very good. $800.00 July 07ZFK 31900* (R.82s) Nearly very fine est1500.00 Nov 07 ZFK 33321* (R.82s) Flattened of folds, fine. $420.00ZFK 38862* (R.82s) Crisp extremely fine $3000.00 Nov 07ZFK 53536* (R.82s) Edge nick, last prefix aVF Oct07, May08 Res$800.00ZFK 85159* (R.82s) Centre Fold. EF. Oct07 TWO DOLLARS, Phillips/Randall (1968)ZFK 89303* (R.83s) Uncirculated $3600.00 Nov 07ZFK 94136* (R.83s) Fine. $400.00ZFL 17646* (R.83s) VF $650.00 Oct07 ZFL 23012* (R.83s) Nearly fine. $340.00 ZFL 63463* (R.83s) Small edge nick, gF. Oct07 $400.00ZFL 75353* (R.83s) Very good ZFL 98751* (R.83s) Soiled and flattened of creases and folds, very good. $240.00 ZFL 99226* (R.83s) Very good. July 08ZFN 04194* (R.83s) Multiple creases, small nick top margin aF - est $300.00ZFN 96373* (R.83s) Light handling folds, natural EF. Oct07ZFP 07495* (R.83s) Fine $425.00 Oct07ZFP 64117* (R.83s) Fine. July 08ZFP 85681* (R.83s) Nearly fine. ZFQ 01717* (R.83s) gFine may have been flattened. Aug08 - sold $516.66ZFQ 04264* (R.83s) 3mm tear at bottom, fine. Apr08 $420.00ZFQ 05779* (R.83s) Minor foxing on edge o/w EF. May08ZFQ 38621* (R.83s) Old quarter folds, slight tear bottom right. VF. Oct07ZFQ 64349* (R.83s) Light vertical folds, natural note, near EF. Oct07ZFQ 65113* (R.83s) aVF Oct07 ZFQ 70274* (R.83s) Very good. ZFQ 78950* (R.83s) Centrefold bend, otherwise uncirculated. $2000.00ZFQ 94241* (R.83s) Note with two rust spots, otherwise nearly very fine. $650.00 July 07ZFR 08730* (R.83s) Nearly uncirculated $2100.00 July 07ZFR 01302* (R.83s) Repaired tear at top of note , else F - gF $500.00 ZFR 10220* (R.83s) Light centre fold, good extremely fine. July 08ZFR 43031* (R.83s) Good fine. $750.00 July 07ZFR 44159* (R.83s) gVF $800.00 Oct07ZFR 50782* (R.83s) Two pinholes, crisp, virtually uncirculated Apr08 $1800.00ZFR 62087* (R.83s) A lovely fresh example- aEF est$1000.00 Feb08 ZFR 92897* (R.83s) Tiny left edge tear otherwise very good $320.00 ZFS 059634* (R.83s) Error in Catalogue LCF-UNC May08 Res$2.5KZFS 09637* (R.83s) Creases and folds, 7mm tear bottom edge, very good. $200.00ZFS 61779* (R.83s) Flattened of folds, otherwise nearly extremely fine. $760.00 Nov 07Please show your appreciation of this GUIDE with a YES vote, thank you

How To Lay Tiles Over A Kitchen Splashback

MORE STUFFBRADS OTHER GUIDESHow to lay those TILES!!!How To Lay Tiles Over A Kitcen SplashbackMy experience laying tiles covers more than two decades.The proceedure described below has always given great results.PLAN YOUR JOB,Measure the total length of area to be tiled.Find centre of measured area and draw a plumb(vertical)line top to bottom.Measure the total height and draw a level(horizontal)line through the centre,edge to edge.Place the tile to be used against the vertical line,draw a line down the opposite edge of tile on the wall.Continue marking the position of each tile until you reach the end of the tiled area.At this stage you will know what size your cut will be.If you have a small cut,place your tile exactly half way over your centre line and remark tile position until you reach the end of the tiled area.Remember to allow for tile joint in your setout(2 to 3mm)Repeat the same process for the total height to avoid small cuts under the overhead cupboardsIf the cut is half a tile or bigger,no need to cut the first row oftiles over the bench.Use a 6mm notched trowel for smooth surface and apply to back of tile,covering at least 90%.Position your first tile,lightly pushing into place.Lay the first row,allowing for your jointIf minor adjustments need to be made,use cardboard ripped into small,flat pieces to support tiles until set.Make sure your first row is level before proceeding with the next."T" spacers and "+" spacers are available from tile outlets and are recommended to keep a uniform tile joint,both horizontal and vertical.After 8 to 24 hours (depending on the weather),tiles may be grouted.You will need 2 clean buckets,sponge,rubber glovesand squee-gee.Place about a cup of water in one bucket and add powder to water until "toothpaste" consistancy is achieved.Always add powder to water,not the other way round.Fill the other bucket with clean water,your ready to grout!Place a small amount of grout on the wall and work well into all joints.Only grout as much as you can comfortably wash off before grout sets.Allow grout to become firm(not dry), before attempting to wash it off.Concentrate on "shaping" the tile joint,rather than cleaning the surface of the tile.Any residue on the surface of the tile can be buffed off with a dry rag when completely dry(old towels are good).Stand back and admire your handy work!!!!! any questions at all contact me through "contact member " option and I would be happy to answer them.WILL ADD SOME PICTURES SOON!

WHICH TYPE OF RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES ARE BEST ?

Are rechargeable batteries worth the extra up-front cost, and if so, which type is best?Because there are many different types of batteries and battery uses, there is no one answer to these questions. But I can make a few recommendations that will help you. Thisguide focuses on standard consumer batteriesthe AA, AAA, C, D and 9V batteries you typically put in your portable devices and toys. There are three main considerations: 1. Cost 2. Performance for a given application, and 3. Environmental friendliness. I am going to give you a bunch of important "battery answers" right up front:1. Yes, rechargeable batteries make economic sense in most cases. 2. Nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) are the best rechargeable batteries you can get from several standpoints, including performance and low toxicity for the environment. 3. Although today's disposable alkaline batteries can be thrown in the trash, all rechargeable batteries should be recycled. But there's a little more to rechargeable batteries than that, so I hope you'll read on. I want you to get the most possible benefit from your new rechargeable batteries, and there are a few pieces of information that will help you do that.Rechargeable batteries almost always make economic sense. The upfront cost of setting yourself up with rechargeable batteries and the charger may seem off-putting at first, especially when you realize that you'll want to have some extra batteries that can be recharging while you're running devices like your Walkman, wireless computer mouse, and battery-powered toys. Let's walk through a cost analysis by considering the following scenario. Say you have a few different devices that use AA batteries, and you want to be able to have a total of eight batteries to power them at any given time. You also want four spares that can be charging while the other batteries are in use.The total cost for this scenario12 rechargeable batteries plus the chargerwill be about $65.00. That may sound like a lot of up-front spending when you consider that you can buy an 12-pack of quality disposable AA batteries for aroundtwelve bucks. But if you're like most households and it seems like every other trip to the store finds you buying another 12-pack of throw-aways, then rechargeables will definitely be the better deal. For instance, under the scenario above, if you're now buying a eight-dollar 8-pack of batteries every month, that's a yearly cost of $96. After less than a year, your $65 initial investment in the rechargeable setup will be paid for, and the next 10 years of battery use will be free. Over that period, you would save nearly $1000! And it will be 1,000 fewer disposable batteries going into your nearby landfill .If you don't use that many batteriessay a couple of 8-packs per yearyou could still actually save money over the long run with rechargeables, though that would depend on the types of uses. But rechargeable batteries make the most sense for devices that get heavy to moderate use and have a high to medium current draw. These are the devices you find yourself changing batteries for at least once a month, or every couple of months at a minimum. Which type of rechargeable battery is best?There are several types of rechargeable-battery chemistries:Nickel-Cadmium (Nicad) batteries - usually pronounced "ni-cad" - are a primary form of rechargeable battery, though they are being used less these days because of the toxicity of cadmium.Nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) batteries are probably the most common form of rechargeable now, at least in the standard consumer sizes of rechargeables. Early versions of NiMH rechargeables had problems with too-rapid discharge, but those problems have been solved in current models bit is still the one drawback to them. Because NiMH rechargeable batteries now perform better than Nicads and are free of toxic heavy metals, Nicads are being abandoned by some manufacturers in favor of NiMHs. In any event, NiMHs are usually going to be the best all-around choice for most applications in the heavy to moderate usage range.Instant Rechargeable Batteries (NiMH) can be used straight out of the pack as they lose very little charge from the time they leave the factory to the time you take them off the shelf. They will retain 70% of their capacity over 12 months compared to standard NiMH batteries which lose about 1% per day. They are better for low drain devices such as remote controls and transistor radios.Very low self discharge rate, meaning one can charge them any time, store them until needed, and then use them. Because of the previous characteristic, the manufacturer sells them pre-charged, so one doesn't have to charge them before their first use. Lower internal resistance, meaning higher voltage reaching equipment that uses high currents (such as digital cameras). One disadvantage of the Instants over normal NiMH cells is lower capacity. For the AA size, Vapex claims a capacity of 2100mAh. Normal NiMH AAs are available with capacities of up to 2900mAh nowadays, but when you consider self discharge rate, such NiMH cells stored for about 30 days will drop to 2000mAh. Lithium-ion batteries are very good and have excellent shelf lifei.e. their charge does not go down when they're just sitting around not being usedbut they're more expensive than other types of rechargeable batteries. That means they're usually only a good choice for occasionally used emergency devices or high-drain devices like portable televisions, digital cameras, laptops, and cell phones. If you use such devices often and you have the option to buy them with a built-in lithium-ion rechargeable battery, it's worth doing.You should be able to get hundreds of recharging cycles out of all of these types of batteries

How to buy and sell Pumpkin Patch clothing the EBAY way

pumpkin patch New Patch sets Like most Mums I love Pumpkin Patch but cant always afford the retail prices. That's where EBAY comes in! Since I've discovered Patch items on EBAY I'm hooked.This guide will help you to find Patch clothing the easy way and the cheaper way!When typing in the search box there's no need to type Pumpkin Patch. Just type Patch and the size your after. Example: patch 1If you are looking for new Patch items type Patch BNWT and the size your after. BNWOT is also a option.When bidding ona Patch item always check the sellers other items, as usually they will be listing similar sized items and this will save you greatly by combining postage.Best of all once your child has grown out of their Patch wardrobe you can resell the outfits and make the money back to buy the next size up!Used Patch clothes are greatly cheaper butmake sure you read all the description as wash fade and pilling usually means the photo looks better and brighter than the item actually is. Although on the other hand I have purchased Patch items saying this that are almost brand new. It depends on the seller and how accurate their description is!When looking for current season stock type Patch 06 or Patch 2006. I find buying the latest season will greatly increase my profit when reselling the item after use.When you have purchased several Patch quality items off the one seller add them to your favourite sellers list and you will be sent a email when ever they relist items.I have also downloaded the EBAY toolbar this tells mewhen my watched items are ending giving a 10 min warning, no matter what I'm doing on my computer the little reminder pops up very useful!Very quick to download 9. Buying brand name clothing such as Patch off EbAY has saved me a bundle all my children (5) are decked out in the latest gear for half the price of retail and no one is anythewiser! I hope this guide has helped you to EBAY with ease and buy Patch clothes at a bargain price!Thanks for reading

DVD Regions and what they mean to you.

We get many buyers from other country's who don't understand that DVDs are normally region encoded by the DVD company's. The DVD company's do this due to different TV standards worldwide, for example: Australia is region 4 PAL and America is region 1 NTSC. This is also a good way to tell if you are buying the real deal or not. Many new DVDs should be region encoded or else they are probably copy's. There are some exceptions to the rule but they are very rare. Here is a table of region codes, not all country's are included but if your country is close to one that is named then you are probably that region.REGION 1 -- USA, CanadaREGION 2 -- Japan, Europe, South Africa, Middle East, GreenlandREGION 3 -- S.Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Parts of South East AsiaREGION 4 -- Australia, New Zealand, Latin America (including Mexico)REGION 5 -- Eastern Europe, Russia, India, AfricaREGION 6 -- ChinaREGION 7 -- Reserved for Unspecified Special UseREGION 8 -- Resevered for Cruise Ships, Airlines, etc...

NSW free car history check

After paying for a vcheck (www.checkitout.com.au) - which really seems to be a QLD based site. I found that you can actually check out the history of a car via the RTA website for free. I accidently stumbled upon this service so I decided to write an eBay guide to help others. It tells you the following information on a car:Registration status.Registration expiry date.Registration restrictions that may apply.Who the compulsory third party insurer is.If the vehicle is written off or stolen.Number of names the vehicle is registered under.Number of registered operators in the past 12 months.

Care when buying Lounge-suites off the Internet

Two bad experiences with buying lounge-suites through the Internet led me to write this Guide in the hope it will help others.ALWAYS check the company is a current registered company with Dept. Fair Trade/Consumer Affairs and also is important to always check they have a current ABN.*This is REALLY important:- If they use stock photos of their leather or material lounges- be careful as I found some companies are using these and have made up CD's of someone else's furniture (stock photos) and advertising their lounges as the product you see advertised- when they are actually using cheap international companies in Asia to COPY the styles and the leather and material samples, so what you get is a very inferior copy, poorly made with cheap materials and often not the same colour you had chosen because they can't always match the colour of the leather/material swatches/examples they use when they are using someone else's photos.ALWAYS ask if the photo shown is the actual product you'll be receiving- and if not, ask if any of the stock photos they are using are from ANY of THEIR actual products and if they took the photos of the product themselves, where the lounge was made, if it has been made already and how long until guaranteed delivery.I waited six months before a company delivered the lounge I had bought- they always had an excuse- and according to the delivery company, numerous people had complaints and had been waiting months for their lounge also. We had been quoted 4 to 6 weeks for delivery before committing to the sale.Make sure you get everything in writing and keep in a safe place.I received a different style and a different colour to what I ordered and the Australian company I bought it from, have refused to do anything and have cut all contact after I sent them photos of what I received and asking for a refund, and am now waiting for Dept. Fair Trade to deal with them for "misleading advertising" and to help me get a refund.Hope this helps anyone else buying a lounge-suite off the Internet.Some companies are doing the right thing by using their own photos, but some aren't. Be careful!

Make Your Own Paper Storage Shelves

As a scrapbooker, one of the biggest challenges we face is finding somewhere to store supplies, especially 12x12 paper. One solution, which is easy to do yourself and relatively cheap, is to build paper shelves using a cube storage system.Step 1 - Buy Packages of Cube SystemBe careful, the one pictured below sells for between $5 - $7 dollars a pack but they often sit on the shelf next to a very similar system that cost $13 a packet! You will need at least 2 packs to make shelves. One pack for the base cube shape and one pack to give you 5 shelves.

Spot a BARGAIN on eBay - or is it really a rip off?

Absolute Bargain! Low Starting Price! Don't Miss Out! Bid Now! So you think you've found an absolutely fantastic, can't be beaten, won't find it anywhere else at the very low starting price of just 1c ...BARGAIN!!!Congratulations!You've just been introduced to what we believe to be the worst kind of listing - one which often creates a bidding war with buyers often paying more than a) necessary and b) they initially intended on spending! Before we go into this any further - let me point out that this Guide is unlikely to be popular with sellers who DO choose to list at prices BELOW what they pay for the item the listing cost - and personally, Lindy's Goodies don't care to point out this practice to ALL buyers! After all, we also buy on eBay and not just sell - so we too have been caught in our early days of buying by these ridiculous listings. These days, we don't even both bidding on them.So ... we don't expect very high votes on this Guide ... we know Sellers who don't agree with our opinion will definitely vote against us ... but buyers, please understand that we arevoicing our opinion on this type of listing for your education and understanding. And how often in history do people become unpopular because they don't fear voicing an opinion ... I don't mind at all being one of them ... so on to the information we'd like to share ...Why isn'ta 1c listing worth bidding on?Here area few things to think about before committing to that 'place bid' button ...Have you looked at the price of the Postage and Handling? Is it some overinflated price for the first item, with just a few cents off for the second and subsequent items that you might choose to purchase? So what? You might be thinking ... if I win at .5c and pay the postage, I'm still ahead ... you think ... But, are you really? What if you do decide to buy a 2nd item ... would you still be ahead? And, do you really think its fair supporting a seller who 'cheats' his way into getting bids, rather than being honest and starting the bid at a fair price forboth themselves (the seller) and the buyer? So why DO sellers start at 1c? That's easy - eBay charge them very little fora 1clisting!But as anyone in business will know,you cannot afford to buystock - assuming it is new - and then reselling for less than the wholesale price they paid. Do you see my point? They couldn't afford to stay in business unless their profit comes from somewhere else - like the postage

Created Gemstones: What They Are and What They Aren't

There seems to be a fair bit of confusion about what a "created"gemstone is, and more to the point, what it is not. Some people use the term very casually and think it meansglass, rhinestone, cubic zirconia, etc., colored to look like the truejewel, some people just don't know what the heck it is, some people areconfused about the whole issue, and who could blame them? With anyluck, this guide will help to clarify things, somewhat. (Note that thislittle guide does not cover diamonds; we have written another guide specifically on diamond simulants.)The term "created" means something specific in the jewellery industry.There are guidelines and even laws in place to protect the consumer andregulate the industry, and companies have actually been sued over theirimproper use of the term "created" when applied to gemstones that wouldbetter be described as simulants.So what's a created gemstone?Simply put, a real created gemstone (also known as a synthetic, from the Greek synthesis, meaning "put together, combine, or compose", i.e., to create) is one that is man-made, but which is chemically, physically, and visually identical to the natural version.A created ruby is a ruby, a created sapphire is a sapphire, a createdemerald is an emerald, and so forth. These created jewels are made in alaboratory, crystalized and formed by special processes, and then cutlike any other gemstone. They are absolutely real, they just aren't natural.Trained gemologists can often tell the difference between a createdgemstone and a natural one, but it isn't always easy, no matter howwell-trained or skilled the gemologist or jeweller. As gem-qualitynatural rubies, emeralds, sapphires, etc. are rare, they're naturallyquite expensive (the higher the quality, the higher the price, ofcourse), usually considerably higher than a created gemstone of thesame type. Natural gemstones also have flaws (that's one way to tellthey're natural!), while lab-created stones can be and usually areflawless or nearly so. Another factor is that created gemstones areoften available in colours that are extremely rare in the naturalvariety of the stone.If a gemstone is not physically, chemically, and visually identical to its natural counterpart, it is not a created gemstone!What about simulated gemstones?Simulated gemstones (simulants) are another classification.These can be just about anything, depending on the manufacturer andseller: plastic resin, cubic zirconia, moissanite, glass, rhinestone,crystal, "paste", you name it. There are very high quality simulatedgemstones and there very cheap and dodgy ones, and there's everythingin between. These gems are also referred to as "faux" (French for"false") or "mock". There's nothing inherently wrong with simulated gemstones, so long asyou know what they are and you know what you're buying. Most peopleconsider cubic zirconia (CZ) to be a diamond simulant, for example(although CZ can simulate other gemstones, as well, depending on thecolour and cut). There are other diamond simulants, as well, includingmoissanite. There are also a good many other simulated gemstones thatare very pretty and well worth having in a piece of jewellery. Asnoted, being "simulated" doesn't mean it's necessarily bad, only thatit's not "the real thing", and so long as you know that's what you'rebuying, all should be well.. How can I tell the difference?Ah, now here's where it gets tricky. Some sellers and online storeswill use the word "created" when they really should be saying "plastic"(yes, we've seen that for ourselves!), and they'll say "createddiamond" when they mean cubic zirconia (again, nothing wrong with CZ,but it's not a diamond, and while it looks very similar, it'svisually, chemically, and physically different!). This is usually because theydon't really know the difference, but it may be because they're deliberately trying to mislead. First, always check the seller's feedback! What have others said aboutthe goods they received from the seller? It's true that there arealways cases where people are just not satisfied no matter what kind ofservice they get or the goods they receive, but if a sellerconsistantly has regular negative feedback, especially if the comments are that the quality of the item received was poor or that the item was fake,this is a pretty good warning sign! Certainly take negative feedback inthe context in which it's given and balance it against the rest, but ifa seller has buyer after buyer saying that the item they received wascheap or low quality or fake, that should raise a red flag to potentialbuyers. After you're satisfied with the seller's feedback history, the best thing that a buyer can do is ask the seller questions.Ask them what, specifically, they mean by "created rubies" or"natural cubic zirconia" or "created diamonds" or whatever term they're using. Askbefore you bid, and then carefully consider the answer you get, and thedegree of knowledge the seller shows on the subject. Not all sellersare (nor should they have to be) certified gemmologists, but they shouldhave a good working knowledge of what they're selling and be able toanswer your questions clearly and professionally. There is absolutely nothing wrong with created (or even simulated)gemstones, and in fact, the created versions can be extraordinarilybeautiful, flawless, and with fantastic colour. Just exercise a bit ofcaution, check feedback, and ask the right questions prior to bidding.We hope that this guide has given you some insights that will behelpful in navigating the sometimes confusing jewellery market on eBay.

Fender Japan

Fender Japan GuitarsFrom the early 1950s through the late 1970s, Fender USA had little competition in the guitar arena, in the making and selling of their classic Stratocasters and Telecasters, among other popular models. As many people know, when the Fender was sold in January 1965 to CBS (Columbia Broadcasting System, Inc.), things changed.A serious amount of money was spent on advertising and sales went up drastically, which, from Fenders perspective, was a good thing. But, with more sales came more production, and more production meant less attention to details and a slumping of quality-control. As Forest White (then manager of electric guitar and amplification production at Fender) put it plainly, Profit became paramount.This work ethic clashed with what musicians wanted. They were getting more poorly-made instruments as the years went on and found they were still paying a high price for them. With the introduction of many other versions of the Strat and Tele, and other less-popular models, guitarists started looking for alternatives to Fender guitars. They wanted the quality and classic design of the old Fenders, but didnt want to pay the rising collectible cost of the old 1950s and 1960s models.At this time in Japan, the electric guitar was making its great debut, and Fender guitars were highly sought- after. Finding it very difficult to acquire a real USA-made Fender, and finding it extremely expensive, a team of businessmen, guitar enthusiasts and Japanese luthiers banded together and started the FujigenGakki guitar factory lawsuit division, where they had brought in a handful of choice original 1950s and 1960s Fenders and dismantled them. Pickups were unwound and studied electronically, wood core samples were taken and exact dimensions of the woods were recorded. Artists were paid to replicate the logo designs and hardware designs. And then, finally, the Japanese started to manufacture their own Fender replicas under the names of such companies as Greco, Fernandes, ESP, Joo Dee, Westminster, Heerby, El Maya, and even Yamaha) so that they could enjoy what America was enjoying, but under their own terms and at their own cost. And most importantly, these guitars were easily available from local music shops. This went on for a number of years until it had become so popular that Fender was made aware of the situation and decided to really take a look at what was going on in Japan. After deliberately getting their hands on a few good copies, they were astonished (and probably really angry) about how accurate some of the copies were.Enraged at this deliberate copyright infringement, Fender threatened a lawsuit against many of these companies in the early 1980s, forcing them to cease and desist production. Many ceased (like El Maya, Heerby, and Joo Dee), but many desisted and kept making these same guitars with minor changes to the logos and headstock designs. And there were others who just ceased, and then just picked up and started making them again under a different name.All this interest in Fenders classics and the Japaneses successful efforts at re-introducing the famous Strat and Tele designs from the 1950s and 1960s gave Fender USA a bright idea making reissues of their OWN classics! What a great idea! Its a wonder nobody else thought well, er, uhSo, Fender (under the direction of Dan Smith at the Fullerton Plant) started to really get things going prior to 1982 so that they could release their vintage line of reissue guitars, which are still being made today. Since the Japanese were already so successful, they hired a Fender Japan team (largely made up of Grecos designers and luthiers) to try to do what they did best, but by changing the logo to Fender and putting Fender USA pickups in them. After a trial period, the USA team decided to pay the Japanese team a visit and see how things were going. Upon completion of their trip, Dan lamented: Everybody came up to inspect them and the guys almost cried, because the Japanese product was so good - it was what we had been having a hell of a time trying to do."So, (in my personal opinion) due largely to the Japanese work ethic of leaving/accepting no room for error in their work and their exceptional attention to detail and focused attitude, these early Fender Japan guitars (JV for Japanese Vintage) started a successful legacy of real Fenders that continues today.Fender Japan began in 1982 and their JV line of guitars was halted at the end of 1983. Starting in 1984, theMIJ (made in Japan) decade began and continued through 1994. From 1994 until today, Fender Japan guitars are stamped with the CIJ (crafted in Japan) logo. Fender Squier guitars were produced at the same time as the Fenders in Japan, but were made as cheaper versions of the Fenders, to meet the demand for cheaper guitars in Japan and abroad. Fender Squier still continues to this day.

Rechargeable Battery Fundamentals - Capacity/Charging

Rechargeable Battery Fundamentals, what to look for and how do they work?Rechargeable batteries are the smartest way to power your digital camera, both in terms of battery life and cost. There are two types available: Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) and Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH). Before you purchase ANY type of rechargeable battery you MUST READ below to AVOID DISASTER.Dont be tempted to go for the cheaper NiCd batteries. Not only are they extremely bad for the environment but they suffer from a well-known problem called the memory effect. The memory effect is the term given to the tendency of NiCd batteries to deliver much reduced power output if they are incorrectly charged and discharged over time. If a NiCd cell is charged while it still has capacity left in it, the battery will forget that it had that capacity and will not be able to use it. All NiCd batteries should be fully discharged before they are charged again to avoid the memory effect. NiMH batteries are the best option for rechargeable batteries, and to be honest they should be the only type of rechargeable battery you buy. They deliver better power output, dont suffer from the memory effect, and are compatible with the majority of chargers. When choosing a NiMH battery check for these things: Cell capacity: All NiMH batteries have a capacity rated in milliamp hours. This figure will typically be found on the side or back of the battery with milliamp hours abbreviated to mAh or mAH. A milliamp hour is the theoretical amount of milliamps (mA) the battery can deliver for one hour. A 2200mAh battery will be able to deliver 2200mA for one hour, or 1100mA for two hours, 550mA for four hours and so on. It must be taken into consideration though that not all cells are created equal, this is due to a huge variance in design and manufacture. Aside from that the stated capacity is rarely the capacity available as some power is lost through heat and dissipation. The battery should be pretty close to its rating though. Basically what you are looking for is the highest capacity possible, at the moment this is around 2700mAh although more commonly 2500mAh or 2300mAh. Anything below this should be avoided. Charging: A charger feeds an electric current rated in milliamps (mA) to a cell for a certain amount of time. This could be a large amount of current over a small amount of time or a small amount of current over a long period of time. In theory the first option is better for the end user as the battery will be charged more quickly. However in practice this isnt the case, putting a lot of current into a cell over a short amount of time leads to an increase in temperature which shortens the batteries life and its power output. It is for this reason that quick chargers should be avoided. Thankfully it is easy to work out roughly how long a battery should take to be fully charged in any charger provided you know the batteries capacity in mAh and the charging current in mA. The batteries capacity should be easy enough to find printed on the battery itself, the charging current should be found on the back of the charger. All NiMH batteries need roughly 1.5 times the amount of energy put in as they are going to get out. So a 2200mAh battery will need 3300mA energy put in to be fully charged. To work out how long a battery will take to charge you simply multiply the cells capacity by 1.5 as explained, and than divide this number by the charging current in mA. So for the previous example it would take the 2200mAh battery 16.5 hours to be fully charged if using a 200mA charging current (3300mAh 200mA = 16.5). This can be taken as a general guide; in practice a charger will monitor certain characteristics within a battery to tell when it has reached capacity. The last thing to be aware of is that unlike Alkalines, NiCd and NiMH rechargeable batteries will not hold their charge for an extended period of time. Alkaline batteries are typically still usable more than five years from purchase whereas a typical rechargeable may go flat within months if not used.

Cigarette Card Guide To Collecting And Grading

Cigarette Card's Meteoric RiseI've been collecting and selling collectors cards and cigarette cards for over twenty years. Before you read this guide please subscribe to my card collecting newsletters for updates on rare cards and tips on buying by Clicking Here, thank you.Cigarette cards were issued during a significant time in the history of mankind, 1870s-1940s. These encyclopaedic cards captured the Precambrian explosion in 20th century innovation and social upheaval that propelled us into our modern age. World Wars, the first Hollywood movie stars, motorcars, the Wright Brothers' first flight, famous golfers, soccer stars, scarce wildlife and the atom bomb are all vividly portrayed on these frameable, miniature masterpieces. Even the cigarette cards were the creation of rapid improvements in colour printing technology and competitive pressures of an expanding free market. It's possible that the powerful tobacco manufacturers who issued these humble, everyday items unwittingly accelerated information democracy itself at a time when books were still expensive to the average person.The cigarette cards were designed from the start to be collected, perhaps becoming more addictive than the product itself. Even after a hundred years later, cigarette card collecting has surged ahead thanks to the ease of trading on the equally simple but innovative eBay website. At the start of the new millennium, a Honus Wagner card became the first cigarette card ever to exceed a million dollars, and one of the most expensive items to be sold on eBay. It is the cigarette card's uncanny ability to tap into the interests of a wide cross-section of society and inbuilt collectibility that have ensured its survival over other collectors' items. History of Cigarette Cards The trading card pre-dates the cigarette card and originated from the 17th century tradesman's cards. Advances in colour printing technology in the mid 19th century led to a rapid increase in trading card production. The trading card became a popular promotional tool among European firms, especially Au Bon Marche' and Liebig. The first cigarette packets were very fragile and so a thick card was inserted to stiffen them. During a period considered by many to be one of the most innovative in the history of mankind, an enterprising US businessman decided to print a colourful advert on the "stiffener" card. The tireless evolution of the cigarette card was driven by the highly competitive and creative tobacco markets. Soon cards were issued on subjects appealing to smokers, such as glamorous actresses, sport, warships etc. Firms soon realised that they could strengthen customer loyalty by issuing sets of beautifully illustrated and informative cards, playing on man's instinctive desire to collect and for order and completeness. At a time when the average person could not afford books, and newspapers contained no photographs, the attractive and encyclopaedic cigarette cards were very popular. At the beginning of the 20th century, more cards were issued with cigarette brands than for any other product and this is probably why trading cards are often referred to as "cigarette cards" even though there is no connection with cigarettes. Initially, there were many small independent tobacco firms who issued cigarette cards but, as in many situations, a small group of powerful tobacco firms gradually emerged, striving for mass production and cost cutting. This was bad news for the cigarette card whose quality, it is generally accepted, declined as the years went by.The cigarette card era came to a sudden end at the beginning of WWII, due to severe paper rationing. The vacuum left by cigarette card swas partly filled by bubble gum cards and tea cards. It is generally accepted that the design of these post WWII cards favoured mass production over quality. There is currently a collectors' card renaissance. Collectors' card producers are listening to what many collectors want: beautiful, unique artwork and accurately researched subjects printed on high-quality card stock.Reasons For Collecting Cigarette CardsCigarette cards cover a wide range of subjects: sport, transport, wildlife, movie stars etc.Cigarette cards vividly portray perhapsthe most important time in history: 1870s-1930s.Cigarette cards are beautifully illustrated, especially the early ones, making them ideal for picture framing.Cigarette cards are easy to fileaway and don't require much storage space.Cigarette cards are a valuable investment. One card exceeded a million dollars on eBayat the start of the millennium.The cigarette card hobby has been firmly established for nearly 100 years now.Cigarette cards have been well documented in guides dating back to the 1920s and so most cardsare easy to identify, date and value.Cigarette Card Storage There are three main ways that cigarette cards can be stored, depending on what you wish to use them for.Cigarette Card InvestmentIf you want cigarette cards for purely investment purposes, the best way to preserve them is to put your sets of cigarette cards into piles, wrap them in tissue paper andplace them in an airtight container. This method is inconvenient if you wish to view them regularly. Showing Your Cigarette Cards To The WorldNot everyone wishes to hide their cigarette cards away in investment vaults. Many cigarette cards are extremely attractive and perfect for picture framing. It is quite common to see picture framed cigarette cards in old English public houses or restaurants. It is important not to display the cigarette cards in direct sunlight as this may cause discoloration. The Best CompromiseThe most popular form of cigarette card storage is the plastic page or leaf. The cigarette cards can be viewed without damaging them and then filed away conveniently in an album.Grading Cigarette CardsIt is important in cigarette card collecting to purchase the very best condition cardsyou can afford, since these increase in value more rapidly than mediocre cards. Most cigarette card collectors are natural perfectionists and strive for the highest graded cards possible.Mint: Exactly as issued. Excellent: Clean back and front, including edges, sharp edges and sharp corners. Very Good: Clean back and front, may have dirty and softened edges and rounded corners. No creases.Good: Soiled on back or front. Blemished edges, rounded corners and one crease. Fair: Creased, dirty or with mount damage to backs and possibly some picture surface missing. Poor: Badly creased, dirty or with mount damage to backs and surface damage on backs and fronts. What Cigarette Cards To CollectThe one advantage that the cigarette card has over other collectors' items is the fact that they cover so many globally appealling topics, even collecting itself. Many people are drawn into collecting cigarette cards through their other interests and hobbies eg someone who enjoys playing golf may collect golf cigarette cards. I've created a number of thematic cigarette card guides, including colour scans and information on a small selection of cigarette card sets to give you an idea of the vast range of topics available.*More Card Guides

Pure Cosmetics Guide To Colour Correctors

At first glance, colour correctors can appear very strange indeed. How can applyingsomething that is green be a good idea? Cosmetic scientists have discovered that the most effective way to reduce the appearance of imperfections is to begin by neutralising the unwanted colour. Maximum neutralisationcan be achieved by applying the opposite colour of the imperfection. Closely examine the imperfection to determine the problematic colour and select the opposite colour corrector.White is the opposite of black and neutralise bruises, tattoo's etc..Orange is the opposite of blue and neutralises ashiness, under eye circles...Green is the opposite of red and neutralises acne, new scars etc...Yellow is the opposite of violet and neutralises bruises, under eye circles etc...Red is the opposite of green and neutralises old bruises, flu etc..Makeup artists agree that when it comes to concealing imperfections, it is cheaper and more effective to include a colour corrector intoyour beauty routine.Take care not to over apply colour correctors or instead of neutralising the unwanted colour you will end up with a different colour to cover.Apply Color Corrector to 45%, Foundation to 75%, Concealer to 100%Copyright Pure Cosmetics 2007

Acne scar, scar

"Skin Needling or collagen induction therapy (CIT)can safely treat depressed acne scar, hypertrophic surgical scar, borders of skin grafts, chicken pox scars, deep facial lines, wrinklesand skin pigmentation "TheClearskincare Skin Roller range was developed after 2 years of research and patient trials.Skin Needling can safely treat depressed acne scar, hypertrophic surgical scar, borders of skin grafts, chicken pox scars, deep facial lines, wrinklesand pigmented skin.1. History of Skin NeedlingSkin Needling has been performed for many years, using a variety of instruments, to soften depressed scars and deep facial lines.Dr Philippe Simonin, a Swissfrench dermatologist, published his results in Baran's Cosmetic Dermatology 1994, but his ground breaking technique, which he named Electroridopuncture (ERP), remained largely unknown to the wider medical community. In his study of 600 patients, he examined results for 2 patient groups - one with Skin Aging and the other with Old Scars. He performed 10 teatments on all patients.In the patient group with Skin Aging, 40% showed significant improvement, 22% moderate improvement and 13% some improvement - as measured by comparative skin imprints. In the patient group with Old Scars, 60% improved with 5-6 treatments. Best results were obtained for old fibrous and depressed scars.Another pioneer of Skin Needling was Dr Andre Camirand, a Canadian Plastic Surgeon who made a chance observation of improvement in the texture and depression of the scars of some of his facelift patients, who had undergone tattooing for scar camouflage. He experimented with tattooing facelift scars without pigment, and noted improvement in texture and colour. He published an article on his results in JACPS in 1992.Dr Camirand postulated that hypochromic (depigmented) skin repigmented through the transplantation of melanocytes (pigment producing skin cells) from normal skin into the hypochromic skin during the needling procedure. He also reported flattening of hypertrophic (overgrown) scars. He performed his needling procedures using a high speed tattoo gun, under local anaesthesia and treated each scar to pinpoint bleeding. He repeated the procedure every 2-8 weeks and no side effects or complications were reported.2. Making Skin Needling easierIt is possible to obtain good results with ERP for deep depressed scars and deep lines after 10-15 treatment sessions.However performing ERP is time consuming and requires extreme patience, so during 2003/2004, I worked with an Australian instrument designer to develop an affordable, autoclavable medical skin roller and homecare rollers that could make Skin Needling easier to perform and accessible to every patient who needed it.Skin Needling can be safely performed on all skin colours andtypes. There is no risk of postinflammatory hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation(lightening or darkeningof the skin as a result of skin trauma) as the melanocytes (pigment skin cells)remain intact, like the dermis, during Skin Needling. This is the major distinguishing safety feature when comparing Skin Needling and other invasive procedures that are used to treat deep line and depressed scars, ie. laser resurfacing, deep chemical peels and dermabrasion.Other distinguishing safety features of Skin Needling include:significantly reduced risk of infection;significantly reduced downtime period for healing; andsignificantly reducedcomparative cost.3. How Skin Needling with a skin rollerworksSkin Needling with a skin roller produces hundreds of tiny dermal injuries. Each dermal injury triggers the body's natural wound healing response within the skin, producing and depositing new collagen and elastin in the treatment area. Each successive treatment triggers the production and deposition of new collagen and elastin that progressively in-fill (collagen induction) the depressed scars and deep lines. Collagen induction can continue for up to 12 months after a treatment has been performed.As the dermal layer produces more collagen and elastin, with successive treatments skin becomes firmer, smoother and more elastic, and the complexion becomes and looks more balanced and healthier. Effectively Skin Needling performs a non surgical facelift.The hundreds of tiny dermal injuries produced by the skin rollers also act as channels that significantly increase the absorption of skincare creams. For the hair, the skin roller also stimulates blood flow around blood starved hair follicles and gently exfoliates dead skin cells. Used in combination with Minoxidil for hair restoration,the skin roller significantly increases the uptake of Minoxidil reducing the period from when first results are evident from 3 months down to 4-6 weeks.4. ResultsInClearskincare's experience, results vary between patients, with some acheiving 90%+ improvement in scarring and others less than 50%. However, all patients acheive some improvements. BeforeAfter BeforeAfterThe most exciting feature of Skin Needling is its safety advantages. Skin Needling can be safely performed on Asian and darker skins, as well as skins that have been previously lasered or had dermabrasion treatments. When compared to laser resurfacing or clinical microdermabrasion, the benefits of skin needling are:There is a significantly reduced chance of hypo or hyperpigmentation (patchy lightening or darkening of the skin); Significantly reduced chance of infection (as long as the roller is used by only one person and hygeine directions are followed); Significantly reduced downtime and pain (nodowntime orpain with homecare rollers);Results are permanent; andA fraction of the cost.Generally, deep ice pick acne scars and deep facial lines will need to be treated by a medical professional using a medical face roller in combination with the homecare rollers. However, not as deep wider acne scars and other depressed scars, aging, sun damagedand pigmented skin can be treated using homecare rollers.Skin Needling can be performed for whole face rejuvenation, and when combined with tretinoin, hydroquinone and or copper peptides, delivers equivalent results to laser resurfacing with a no risk profile. It can also be regularly repeated as a patient ages to replenish collagen and elastin, there is no limit to the number of procedures/treatments undertaken.5. A better, finest quality reusableskin rollerIn 2005, to meet the needs ofour patients,Clearskincare developed the only homecare skin rollers available that are designed to be reusable for 12 months. The Clearskincare Rollersrepresent 2 years of research, design, development and patient trials to bring an effective and afforadable skin roller to clinicians and the public. The Clearskincare Roller range is unique, they are constructed of the finest quality stainless steel needles mounted in the highest quality autoclavable medical grade plastic rollers and handle.Used daily and cared for as directedyour Clearskincare homecare roller will last for 12 months.TheClearskincare Roller range wasdesignedto maximise results for treating acne scars, lines, wrinkles, stretchmarks as well as thinning hairwhilst minimising downtime and pain. Maximising results whilst minimising downtime and pain is acheived by the careful selection of needle length to target the specific areas of the epidermis and dermis to achieve these goals. To achieve these desired results needle length and gaugeare the most critical factors when selecting skin rollers. Clearskincare rollers use 0.25mm gauge needles, the thickest usable needle gaugeto stimulate maximum collagen and elastin whilst not causing scarring. Thicker needles will cause scarring, unnecessary pain and bleeding, thinner needles will not stimulate enough collagen or elastin to be effective. The Clearskincare Skin

Timeshare Resort Vacation - Buying -The Good

What is Timeshare Ownership? Can we stay in any resort? What do I get for my money? When can we stay? Can we give it to friends or family to use or can we swap it for another resort? What other charges or things we need to know might there be?Timeshares are a type of holiday vacation property ownership. With timeshares, the use as well as the costs of maintenance are shared among the owners. Exchange agencies offer memberships where your timeshare units can be 'banked' and can be swapped for another of their affiliated resorts. There are over 5000 resorts worldwide Timeshare owners can choose to stay at their resort during their allocated period, which will vary depending on the type of ownership and resort. They can rent out their week, or they can give it to friends or family to use. Timeshare owners can become members of an exchange agency such as Resort Condominiums International or Interval International, which are the two largest, or one of several others. This allows you to 'bank' your unit and save it to use at a later date (usually within a 3 year period) and swap it for another resort or accrue so that you can have a longer holiday or have additional people come along.Types of Ownership:Ownership is often sold as weeks which may be fixed, floating or rotating weeks.The most basic timeshare is sold as a fixed week. The resort will have a calender numbered accordingly from the first week of their year (may be a calender or financial year). An owner will own a deed relating toa single specified week. Ownership may be for a floating week which will relate to how many weeks you own and from which weeks you are able o select your stay.Some timeshare may be sold as a rotating week which may be rotated forward or backwards each calender year. This allows each owner to have the chance to use the resort during peak periods but it is not flexible.Deeded vs. Right to Use:There is a major difference in timeshare ownership between deeded and right to use contracts. A deeded contract usually relates to a resort that is divided into weeklong increments and are sold as fractional ownership and are real property. With the right to use contract, the purchaser has the right to use the property according to their contract but when the contract ends the ownership reverts to the property owner.Unit sizes and types:Timeshare properties are usually apartment style units ranging in size from a studio unit (which may sleep only two) up to a three or four bedroom unit. Timeshare unitshave a kitchen complete with all the cooking and eating utensils according to the amount of people they sleep. They have a dining and lounge area (sofas may be included in the lounge room and double as sleeping accommodation). There are televisions and vcrs and other furnishings to may your holidaycomfortable.The rooms may notcontain washers and dryershowever there are usually common laundries with washers, dryers and ironingboard and iron (though the washer and dryer may be coin operated depending on the resort). Timeshare units are usually listed by how many a unit will sleep ( the first number) and how many it will sleep privately (the second number). ie:2/2 would normally be a studio unit or one bedroom.6/4 would be a two bedroom unit with a sofa bed or lounge.Timeshare resorts restrict the number of occupants to the maximum number it will sleep. An infant in a cot will usually be counted and not included as an extra. Resort FacilitiesFacilities and activities that are included or offered at each resort will depend on the location of the resort and the style of the resort. A resort based on a beach will usually offer more water based activities, a rural or farm retreat will offer experiences of bushwalking, nature watching and other related activities. The resort may offer a range of activities that are free to members, and additional activities that may be undertaken at an extra cost. Each resort will have its own website and all the relevant information should be included. Availability:The availability will be dependant on the nature of the resort. A resort based on the beach will have greater availability during the cooler months than the warmer seasons. A resort nearer the snow will be booked further ahead for the ski season. City and rural resorts may vary according to what is happening in the area.The Good and the Bad:One of the main benefits of timeshare ownership is that it is real property and is able to be used as such. When choosing to give the holiday time to friends or family be aware the you may have to pay for a gift certificate in their name to allow them to use the unit.There are additional costs involved in ownership such as the yearly maintenance and upkeep of the resort and grounds. The resort will send you a yearly budget and your yearly maintenance costs will be outlined. These vary depending on the resort and thearea the resort is situated, and the size of the resort and grounds. An island resort may have higher costs relating to staffing, upkeep andlaundering facilities as more services may have to be utilized offshore.Things to consider when buying:What style of vacation suits your families needs best? Does the resort offer lifestyle and activities that are able to be utilized by your family?Are there additional activities offered, and what are the costs involved?Is the size and style of accommodation suitable for you for a weeklong stay?Are you able to drive there, or does it involve a plane or boat trip and possibly hiring a car or taking a tour? What are the costs involved?Do you need to take along supplies or are there stores close buy that will meet the dietary or health needs of your family?Is the allotted timeshare week availabilitygoing to be able to coordinate with your families holidayrequirements such as school holidays and time off work to allow for travel time to and from the resort?Where to find out more information:Check out the individual resort websites for detailed information on what they offer, the activities and style of accommodation, pictures and contact information so that you can make further enquiries.Search for Timeshare exchange companies and affiliated resorts to learn more about where you can swap or exchange yur timeshare for.Search ebay for Timeshare Opportunities at:http://home.search.ebay.com.au/timeshare_Real-Estateorhttp://tickets-travel.ebay.com.au/

Clothes for Bigger Men.

A guide to Clothing for Big and Tall Men.We started our ebay store out of pure frustration - the man in our household is 199cm tall and ~120kg - finding Plus sizesclothes he liked at a reasonable price and quality was a nightmare!. Living in regional Western Australia didn't help either! So became Style Plus.We have discovered on our ebay journey that sizes vary dramatically and hope this guide can give you a little guidance in your purchases.Australian Sizes compared to others.Many of our department and variety stores now stock larger sizes - be careful as they are not always as big as they seem. And if the item you are looking at is an American sizing you can guarantee that it will be bigger, usually much bigger!We have also found that usually the Americangarments are a lot better quality, but this is just our observation. For example, hubby usually wears a Target 6 or 7XL, a Hard Yakka 4XL and in American sizes he is a 2XL if that.Some American sizes either have a "T" or a "B" on the end eg. 2XLT or XLB this means that they have been specifically made for a "Taller" or "Bigger" man and are usually longer orwider.Always check measurements!Things to help you make the right choice.Know your measurements. Get someone to help you measure as otherwise it can be inaccurate. Measure:

Australian Aboriginal Investment Art

It is important to remember that there are many different styles of art throughout Australia. In pre-European times Aborigines painted on caves, bark, on sand and on their bodies. In additions to this the walls ofour huts (the building of permant/semi-permanent dwellings was much more wide spread than commonly known) were decorated with art work, as were the possum skin fur coats some tribes wore. Implements for both play

Collecting Diecast Cars - Hobby or Obsession???

Diecast cars have come a long way in a relatively short period of time. The quality that you are now able to get in 1/18, 1/24 and even 1/64 models is exceptional, with new models coming out constantly,but why would you want to spend your hard earned money on 'toy cars'?Like most people who collect, that all comes down to personal choice. I myself collect cars for a number of reasons (the pictures above are just some of my collection):I enjoy the look of them.Hopefully they are assets.I could never afford the 'real car', so why not have a model of it.With racecars, it's because I like a particular driver or their paint scheme.I enjoy the 'thrill' (for want of a better word) of finding the car I want at the price I want to pay.I was never into collecting stamps......These days as I mentioned, the detail that manufacturers like Biante, Classic Carlectables, GMP, Action, Minichamps etc. are putting into their cars is incredible. It was only in the early 2000's that Biante and Classic Carlectable had 1/18 scale cars that didn't have opening doors, bonnets etc., and the Classic Carlectable 1/43's didn't even have an interior!!! What Size is that?????Before I go on much more though, I should explain for those who are not sure, about the sizes.A 1/18 scale car is 1/18 the size of a real car, so if you enlarged you model 18 times, it should be the same size as the real thing. Follows are approximate sizes for various scales: 1/18 - Approx. 26cm long x 10cm wide 1/24 - Approx. 21cm long x 8cm wide1/43 - Approx. 12cm long x 5cm wide 1/64 - Approx. 8cm long x 3cm wideSo, you want to start collecting, but don't know where to begin? Well first off have a look at Diecast cars listingon ebay, and see what you like. Are you a ford fan? Then type 'ford' into the search. Looking for a particular V8 supercar driver? Type their name in and off you go. I always like to search with 'titles and descriptions' function on, as this helps me find items, that my not have what I'm after just in the title. Also, if you are after racecars have a look in sport memorabilia - racingas there are sometimes cars listed here.Next, decide on what you want to spend. DO YOUR RESEARCH. Have a look at what's for sale, or use the search function to find out what has sold and for how much. Cars start at 99c for Matchbox and Hotwheels (1/64)and can go up to $100's for 1/18's. As a rule, an average Matchbox or Hotwheels car (not Matchbox old cars or Hotwheels Treasure Hunts) will set you back $2 - $5 (plus postage) and 1/18's are $100 for the newer V8 supercars or Ford or Holden road cars. If buying Matchbox, Hotwheels or even 1/43 scale cars, always look at the sellers 'other items for sale' as if you buy more than just one thing from them, it can save you on postage costs. Same goes for 1/18's but average postage costs should be around $14 for a single car and up to $20.00 for two cars (depending on location), as obviously these are much bulkier.Who do you buy from?I unlike some people, don't have a problem buying from someone with a zero or a low rating. I figure, we all have to start somewhere. I probably wouldn't however buy a $150 car from someone with a zero rating, unless I was able to pick it up. Sometimes, people with zero or low ratings have some absolute bargains, and so, are well worth a look. There are plenty of fantastic sellers on ebay, who are not out to 'rip you off' (have a look at their feedback and rating scores, some people have received negative ratings for absolutely pathetic reasons). If however the postage cost is not specified, then ask the seller a question, because this can be a trap for the unwary and can blow out the cost of your 'bargain'. I have a few sellers that I buy from regularly, because they are great to deal with, and I know that they will look after me. Also, if you can't afford something you really, really have to have, then ask the seller if you can pay for it in a few days or over a few weeks, many sellers will be happy to do this, provided you ask themBEFORE YOU BID. If you do this, don't stuff the seller around, make payments when you say you will and let them know that it's been done.Have a look also in listings that say things like 'Assorted Cars, or Mixed Lot or Loose' as sometimes you can find great deals mixed in with these and not have to pay a lot to get them. You may end up with a heap of cars you don't want, but you can always relist them as someone else may just want them at the 'right price'.Displaying you CollectionIf you are going to spend you hard earned dollars on a diecast collection, then I figure you might as well show it off. Some people keep their cars sealed in the original box, but I like to have mine on display for all to see. Ebay is also a great place to find display cabinets. Do a search for display cabinetor glass cabinetand use the search function to find what'snearest to you. If you are planning to have a largish collection, I suggest you talk to you insurance company and have something added to your policy to cover your cars, cabinets etc., just in case something ever happens.I hope these little bits and pieces help in some way. I enjoy my hobby and sometimes I think it has a mind of it's own as it just keeps growing and growing.Stephen - purchy2000

Buying Items from eBay sellers overseas and insurance

G'day there, I thought I'd write a guide on 'Buying items from eBay overseas', Postal Insurance or the lack of it

Buying a SAUSAGE MAKER/STUFFER

Buying a SAUSAGE STUFFERwould be a pretty easy task one would think but I can tell you from experience it's not.Types of stuffers.There are some types of sausage makersyou may wish to avoid,the stainless-steelplunger types that are a curved Jshape

Autographs on eBay: How to Judge your Friends from Foes

Over the past few years, autograph sales on eBay have gone through theroof. Sellers from across the globe have set a precedent for eBay to bea cheap and easy way to view and buy a vast variety of autographs.Although there is an incredible array of the most elegant andtantalizing collectibles available to anyone with the internet, a largeportion of the autographs on offer are not what they seem.There are many unscrupulous autograph sellers on eBay who offer some ofthe most horrendous forgeries for which people seem to be willing topay large sums of money. For example, there was an auction for salelast year for a John Lennon record "hand signed", even though thecopyright date for the record was several years after his death. Thisguide contains a few small tips to keep in mind when you are planningto purchase an autograph.Many sellers offer a Certificate of Authenticity (CoA) with theirautographs. This is a document that apparently guaranteestheauthenticity of the autograph. This document is barely worth the paperon which it is printed. Anyone with a printer can produce a CoA. Forsome reason, buyers tend to be less inclined to purchase autographsunless they have this piece of paper. Keep in mind that a CoA does notincrease the value or credibility of the autograph. It is much moreimportant to trust the seller.Many buyers tend to focus on a seller's feedback. This is definatelysomething that is important, but not paramount. The vast majority ofpeople who purchase autographs from eBay are starting a collection anddo not have experience in determining forgeries. Therefore, many peoplewill buy autographs and leave positive feedback for sellers, simplybecause their item arrived in the mail. Accordingly, the seller buildsup a large positive reputation. Many of these sellers with largereputations are deserving of this praise, whereas there are othersellers who sell thousands of forgeries every month, racking up ratingsof over 100,000.The best way to discover whether or not an autograph is authentic is tocompare it to a known authentic example. Most celebrity's website willhave a scan of their autograph somewhere on it. It is highly unlikelythat the autograph you are looking to buy will look identical to theautograph on the website. Think about how different your signaturelooks every time you sign a credit card slip. The important factor toconsider is the style of handwriting. For example, look at the angle onwhich the name is written; Are there any unique calling cards, such asdouble loops or overlapping letters; does the autograph end with a longstroke or a well defined letter; Does the autograph look like it hasbeen written slowly (many forgers will trace an autograph slowly,however jaggered writing is a dead giveaway of a forged autograph);etc. After a while, you will become somewhat of an expert onhandwriting, and you will be able to identify a forged autograph a mileaway.Another important issue is pre-printed autographs. This is when an itemhas been hand signed by a celebrity, then the signed photo isreproduced (photocopied) and printed as another photo. This means thatthe autograph is now a part of the photo. The is a cheap alternative toan expensive hand signed autograph. Many sellers only sell pre-printedautographs, and this is completely legitimate. However, a seller MUSTidentify the item as pre-printed. When looing at an eBay listing, readthrough the description thoroughly before bidding. Many sellers usevery obscure wording in their description to lead you to believe thatthe autograph has been hand signed, even though they never actually sayso. If you have any doubts, write an email to the seller and clearlyask them to verify if the autograph is hand signed or pre-printed. Ifyou still have your doubts, then don't bid. There is nothing worse thanspending good money on something you don't want.Autograph collecting can be one of the most exhilarating hobbies. Thethrill received from possessing an item that a celebrity has touchedand written on is something many people crave. But you must rememberone thing: People who obtain the autographs in person spend countlesshours acquiring these autographs, and as such they would not be willingto sell them for nothing, A simple rule is this: If it's too good to betrue, it probably is. Educate yourself before spending any money anddiscover your friends from your foes in the eBay autograph world.

Guide to Leaving Feedback on eBay

Feedback is not merely a reward for the person that receives it. It isinformation for people that will be dealing with that person in thefuture.So feedback left for a buyer is information for future sellers (and to a lesser extent buyers) that deal with that eBay member.Toleave feedback that only states that the buyer has met their paymentobligation is to leave incomplete information for those people.Ifyou have respect for the wider eBaying community, you will do the rightthing and wait until the end of the transaction (that is, when all isknown about the transaction), regardless of whether you end up leavingfeedback first or not.The following added 24 October 2007:This does not mean that you should leave non-positive feedback automatically in return for non-positive feedback, whether in an attempt to blackmail the other party to perform a mutual withdrawal or to get them to act on some complaint.Feedback for BuyersI truly believe that there is no place for the Neutral in buyers' feedback for sellers, especially now that eBay virtually treats them as negative in terms of Seller Performance.So, as a buyer I would recommend that you do the following regardless of whether the seller has yet left feedback.If you are basically happy with what you've received, the state it is in and how much you've paid for shipping then go ahead and leave positive feedback. The seller shipped your item, so they know you've paid. There's no reason for them not to leave you positive feedback in return (if they haven't already).If you feel that there is a problem with anything, please make every effort to contact the seller first. Yes, they should be reasonable in handling your concerns. They should answer your emails in a timely manner. Depending on the value of the item a phone call might be merited. Only when all avenues of negotiation have been exhausted should you then leave negative feedback. The leaving of this negative feedback indicates that you are no longer willing to negotiate in a conventional manner. Do not be afraid of the feedback you may receive in return. It might be hard to accept an "undeserved" negative feedback, but if you've done the right thing by yourself and your seller in negotiation then you can wear it with pride. Make sure that you purchase with a buying ID (have a separate eBay ID for selling) so that you can do this without fear. Do not negotiate further based solely on feedback left for you. The only reason that you should consider removing this negative feedback is if your original concerns are handled in a satisfactory manner; you may or may not consider tempering your original demands at this phase, but resist the temptation to factor in any bad feedback left for you in any further negotiations.If the item is of little value and the eBay Community as a whole is not "endangered" by the sellers practices, then consider leaving no feedback at all rather than negative. An example of an item of little value that might "endanger" the Community would be counterfeit merchandise, such as a movie DVD. You might also consider a negative on an item of little value if the seller was particularly negligent or abusive in their dealings.Next: Feedback for SellersMost importantly - have fun!This is a work in progress. Due to the new feedback policy being introduced by eBay, this feedback guide is to undergo major revision. Please check back soon for that revision.

Playstation 2 Game Format

Game FormatThis is a general warning... Make sure you alway check the Game Format.... Becuase i was caught out the other day... I was buying on a Australia items, only to notice after the Auction end that the Games only Plays on American Game Systems.It's always Better to Be safer then sorry...

Filters Skylight UV or UV Haze which one should I buy?

This is the most common question I get?Which Filter should I get? My answer it makes no real difference. The filter as far as I am concerned is there to protect the lens glass from scratches, thats it full stop. Especially, if you are using digital camera because you can change the colour cast in your software.The UV, Skylight and UV Haze Debate has gone on for years, they are differences - a UV should cause no colour shift, just reduce blue distance haze, a Skylight adds a VERY slight warming effect.If I showed you a photo taken at the same time same camera on a tripod side by side with Skylight on one, UV and UV Haze on the other respective cameras. It is unlikely you could tell the difference.In terms of image modification, these will make no practical difference to negative film or digital, the variations in image processing will swamp the very subtle effect of these filters. Critical slide shooters may find some benefit in certain conditions.Most people including me use these filters for lens protection ... and ever since I've been into photography there have been articles and debates about the pros and cons. It also seems to be rather cyclical - at one time they're out of favour, at other times in favour.In theory, another piece of glass is a potential source of problems - 1 - Some form of distortion. If its a very poor filter! I do not have any of these.2 Flare, the top lens makers spend a lot of money developing lens coatings to minimise the potential for flare. Flare can be either an obvious shape or blur in the image, or less obviously a slight reduction in overall contrast which you would only notice by comparing images. 3 Vignetting - as a filter adds a small ring to the end of the lens, there is a danger of vignetting. If your lens already suffers in this respect, any screw on filter will make it worse.Seriously though, as long as the maker used the bottom of Coke bottle it will make no difference. Against this, there is the benefit of protecting the lens glass. Since for any digital, scanned or camera image, there are no visual benefits to be gained from using a filter, it comes down to whether you think the added protection is worth a possible loss of quality. But remember, you might only see this loss in very specific conditions eg. shooting into the sun, so if you want to test, test in a wide range of circumstances.My recommendation if you get into photography and decide to sell your lens on ebay one day to upgrade to a better lens, it always help that your lens does not have a scratch or marks on it.I have traded my lenses and I can tell you that a scratched lens might sell for 40 percent less then a lens described as MINT with Perfect Glass.

FAKE Pokemon Games LIST

Here is a list and a whole bunch of photo's of all the FAKE POKEMON games. Ive done a few guides to show people how to determine a fake game from a legit one, but here are some photo's of the fake versions in existance. Thisguide willhelp you avoid those.Remember: If a seller is selling one fake, the chance are ALL the games they sell are FAKE!Known Fake Pokemon Games:Pocket Monsters Go Go! (hack of legit Smurfs) Pokemon Adventure (hack of legit Sonic) Combo-system Pokemon games (hacks of old legit NES titles) Pokemon Jade and Pokemon Diamond GBC

WARNING - Buying Electrical Goods in the Nail Category

PLEASE READ THIS .... As a consumer you need to be aware of what is happening.In the nail category there are several sellers from Asia selling Nail Drills and UV Lamps in the nail care category. Ebay have been pulling the listings of these sellers because they are supplying illegal goods into Australia. They are now getting away with listing because they are being deceiptful and not honest with you in their descriptions thus making it hard for ebay to pull their listings. Let me explain why...The goods they are selling to you have illegal plugs on them, they state they supply an adaptor. It is illegal to sell goods in this fashion in Australia. All electrical items MUST have an AU plug on them and not an adaptor. These adaptors they are supplying, not only are they illegal, but they are DANGEROUS because they are not insulated. By using these with an adaptor you are putting yourself, your clients, your family, business and insurance at risk.These sellers are being so dishonest with you and are breaching the Australian Trade Practices Act, there is one seller with many ID's claiming to be an Australian seller, when in fact they are not. To deceive you even more they have deliberately removed all the photos of plugs on their electrical items so eBay will not have enough proof that they are illegal and pull the listing. And if you email and ask them what sort of plug the item has, they will not reply.Alot of these drills are not genuine either. We have seen several of these drills and they were imitations on their face of the genuine item. When our electrician opened them, he was horrified, they were wired and the wires were held together with a white substance, not unlike chewing gum. These would not have passed an electrical test in Australia.We have been buying our drills and lamps direct from the manufacturer for 3+ years, when they arrive in the country the wiring is double checked and the plugs changed to ensure they comply with Australian electrical standards.We offer a genuine 12 month manufacturer's warranty on these electrical items and the warranty is honoured here in Australia. If we can not service or fix your unit here, we will not send it back to the manufacturer and make you wait, we will replace it and then we will sort it out with the manufacturer well after you have received your replacement.When these overseas sellers started selling their drills on ebay and offering a 12 month warranty, we were not surprised, they had tried to copy us. But, if you did by a drill from them and something went wrong, they will be very hard to contact, they will not want to accept responsibility for the broken item and if you eventually manage to get them to accept responsibility you will have to pay exhorbatant postage to get the item back to them and then postage again to get the item back to you. So that bargain you thought you had purchased is not looking like such a great bargain any more.These sellers are not interested in your safety and nor do they have any respect for you or Australian laws. Australian sellers have to comply with these laws and it costs us money to comply and we price our items accordingly.We hope that you will support your Australian sellers and not sellers who have no regard for your safety as they are prepared to lie and deceive you to get your money.Please think carefully before you purchase electrical items from an overseas sellers or even a seller claiming to be in Australia. If you can not see the plug in the photo there is a 99.9% chance it has an illegal plug. Read the feedback carefully!IF YOU RECEIVE AN ELECTRIAL ITEM WITH AN ADAPTOR REPORT IT AS ITEM NOT AS DESCRIBED, because the item you have received is illegal here in Australia. Protect yourself and let these sellers know they need to abide by and respect Australian laws. Leave negative feedback to warn others, and DO NOT given in to threats or promises to remove that feedback, you need to warn others about this shonky practice.End of guide.....WE JUST WANT YOU TO BE CAREFUL AND MAKE AN INFORMED DECISION.

Thinking of an ONLINE HOME BUSINESS - Want to make $$$?

Home Truths about Online Home Businesses:Millions of people the world over (but especially in technology loving countries such as Australia

Pre Made Feedback ready to just copy and paste

Pre Made Feedback ,just ready to Copy and Paste for your Buyers/SellerEnjoy Red Babooshka==========-::- CREDIT TO EBAY -::-.`-

laser tv is it a hoax? laser tv now on sale in USA !!

Once again conversations about big screen tv's and their affordability are on the rise. There is a fear that the latest big screen plasma or LCD tv is soon to be outdated and that there is a cheaper and better option just around the corner, but is it true?Over the last few months the media have been running stories reporting this amazing new technology called laser tv, how it was going to obselete that new lcd or plasma you have just purchased and how it was going to be half the price. Sounds great but is it true and can it really deliver?Many reports that have come out since this media release have claimed laser tv to be a hoax, the so called australian company behind it doesnt even appear to have an office in australia and the company they claim to be working with (mitsubishi electric) denies any knowledge of this company.The press reports appear to be a public relations beat up to raise capital in a listing of the company on the stock exchange.Maybe laser tv will eventually be bought to the market ifit hasnt already been replaced by something else that i am sure is sitting on some development bench somewhere, whether it will suit most peoples needs or budgets would be a very difficult question to answer at this stage and i certainly wouldnt be holding my breath waiting for it.Sure there will be new technolgies coming and there are already developments such as SED screens that will enter the market over the next couple ofyears, but as usual they will be expensive in the first generations.So if you are considering purchasing a new LCD or plasmascreen there is no need to worry about wasting your money, these sets have never been more affordable and now perform better than ever before and will definately be around for many years to come.UPDATE It is now beleived that Mitsubishi will in fact be releasing laser tv into Australia by the end of the year or early next year. Exactly at what price and size is yet to be confirmed, however it would be expected that the size would rival and exceed the current large screen sizes of 50" and 65" offered by plasma and lcd technologies.It still isnt likely to take away many sales from the current technologies at the beginning because of the style of panel, lcd and plasma will still have an edge with flat wall mounting design and i guess it always takes a little while to a new technology to settle in.Iwill keep you posted as soon as new information comes to light.UPDATE 2 11/1/2008Mitsubishi have showed off their new laser tv at CES in america last week, early reports are promising for the new format.Journalists who were amongst the fortunate few to have a private viewing report that the image is stunning and colours are truly amazing however the launch did not compare the laser tvside by side with current LCD technology so it was fairly difficult to make an accurate comparison. One thing that was always assumed about the new laser tvs were that they should be cheaper than Plasma and LCD tvs, this apparently is not going to be the case. Mitsubishi are aiming to have the sets on the market in the US later in 2008 but they apparently will be at a higher sell price than the current technologies.Another drawback will be whether the sets can be made slim enough to wall mount like the current lcd and plasma sets, itis estimated that well over half of the flat screen sets being sold are or will be wall mounted and if the laser tv cannot be made with a similar style then that may well discourage people from changing their buying decisions.Keep your eyes peeled for the australian releases because if the early reports are correct they may well be the tv of choice for many in the future.UPDATE 19/9/08Unfortunately there isn't much to report at this stage asnone of the manufacturers concerned are willing to comment on any upcoming release dtes or even if there will actually be a future release of this technology.There certainly have been many conflicting reports about the technology and it's ability to deliver results made in early press reports, and even whether it is still a revelant formatnow that lcd 1080p 100hz sets are becoming so good at such a low price.My crystal ball is a little cloudy but i certainly wouldnt be staking money on an imminent release if indeed we ever see the format at all, i guess only time will tell and as soon as any further information comes to light i will update again. UPDATE 9/3/09Hello all, well from all accounts it appears that this technology will probably never make it to our shelves. There havent been any indications that the manufacturers are going to pursue any releases at this stage and with other technologies in the pipeline it would make it even more difficult for this technology to establish itself.UPDATE 12/9/09Well it goes to show that i am wrong again, Mitsubishi has launched the laservue range for sale in America. They are claiming some incredible features and benefits including a massive range of colours and far reduced power consumption. It is still going to be around 10 inches deep so that may put some buyers off. However some of the resolution and colour specifications will certainly appeal to a lot of buyers out there and also being 3d compatable may interest others. We will be writing further about this new release on our website over the next few days and providing further information and pictures so feel free to go to aussiehifi.com.au for more updates. Thereare still no release dates scheduled for Australia at this stage.PLEASE take the time to cast your vote on this guide, I have 23 years experience in the hi fi industry but can only be guided by the readers as to what they want to read about. By voting I can understand what you are all interested in reading about and I can keep updating and adding further information as it comes to hand.Thanks for reading, aussiehifi